Harkness State Park

I've often thought the estate at Harkness State Park seems a bit out of place with its surroundings. It's as if this 42-room, Roman Revival mansion drifted down from Newport or Sands Points, before being washed ashore by the tides here in Waterford.

The estate was purchased in 1907 by Edward Harkness, heir to a Standard Oil investment fortune. Named Eolia, after the island home for the Greek god of winds, the "summer home" sits on a 230-acre point with sweeping views of Plum Island, Fishers Island, and The Race. Left to the State of Connecticut in 1952, it was not until the 1990's that the buildings and grounds were restored to their former glory.

Despite the building's Gatsbyesque allure, it is the gardens here at Harkness which are the prime attraction. A late February visit may not be the best way to showcase this, but I wasn't about to complain. Following the  pergola's circular path, there was beauty in the starkness of the grounds, its barren vines, and a steel blue sparkle reflecting off Long Island Sound. 

I suppose, in a majestic setting as this, one ought to think great thoughts. Grand settings make for grand ideas? Maybe so, but not today.  

Instead, I thought of the mild winter, the cold breeze, my muddy shoes, and how long I'd been away.

Friends of Harkness State Park

CT's Historic Gardens: Harkness

CTMQ: Harkness State Park

Harkness Summer Concert Series

Map

Dead Calm

When Long Island Sound is jokingly referred to as the Dead Sea, it is not because of its high salt content or lack of marine life. The Dead Sea remark pokes fun at the lack of wind here during the peak of summer. Hot, windless days with nearly a ripple on the water's surface.
Like all good jokes, there is an element of truth to this, but it sometimes become overstated. The winds most certainly die in late July and August, but on most days, the prevailing southwesterlies  pick up by mid-afternoon.
There are exceptions of course, and they can be lasting. The heatwave this past week brought a 24-hour hazy stillness to the Sound for several days. No afternoon breeze, no puff of wind in the jib, no sunset sails.

The Mystic Whaler , a 1967 reproduction of a 19th-century schooner, was rebuilt in Providence, Rhode Island in 1993. Based in New London during the summer months, she offers everything from sunset sails to 3-day cruises.
Keeping a busy schedule, Carina and I have crossed paths with her in Greenport, Stonington, and several other ports. She is a beautiful sight to see under-sail.
On this hazy evening however, she wasn't going anywhere fast. Just south of Morgan Point, I spotted her practicing that old 21st-century tradition of trimming the iron genoa.

Mystic Whaler Cruises
Cruising Guide To The New England Coast: General Conditions
Iron Genoa - a sailboat's engine

A Case Of Gansett

Good ideas on the drafting table don't always succeed in actuality.

Gansett, a converted and restored 50 foot lobster hull, plied the waters last summer between the harbors of Stonington and Watch Hill. Part-ferry service and part-tour guide, the 25 minute narrated trips served up such local favorites as Narragansett Beer and Del's Lemonade, while transporting passengers to-and-from Dodsons Boatyard and the Watch Hill Docks.

Upon first learning of this last year, I thought it was a wonderful idea. Though separated by just three miles of water, a trip by land between the two villages is nearly 12 miles, and includes the added hassles of beach traffic and parking. Arriving by car, day trippers and weekenders were likely to stay put.

Also, many travelling yachtsmen with a limited schedule visit one of the harbors, but rarely the two; preferring not to waste a day of travel on another nearby port. The Gansett provided the opportunity to visit both towns, regardless of where you dropped anchor.

So, I was saddened last week when I learned the Gansett has moved her operations back to Newport, Rhode Island for 2011. Disappointed, but not entirely surprised. With tickets priced at $25, the fares were too expensive for a short ferry ride.* 

As a tour boat, the trip seemed too limited in scope to draw mass appeal. While Gansett was the only excursion boat serving Watch Hill and Stonington, nearby Mystic offers a slew of choices ranging from schooners to 19th-century steamboats. It is a competitive field.  

Hopefully the waters of Newport provide a more lucrative home for Gansett this season. She is a pretty boat which has been meticulously restored, and I can't help but think she'll strike gold somewhere. 

As for a ferry serving Watch Hill and Stonington....I still think it's a good idea...at least on paper!  

Gansett Cruises

About M/V Gansett

New London Day: New Ferry Service (June 2010)

Grab A Gansett: Vintage Beer Ads

View Larger Map

*Since each excursion/ferry boat offers something unique, prices alone are not always a fair comparison. Still, I thought they were worth noting. A one-hour tour of the Thimble Islands is priced at $10; a round-trip ticket on the North Ferry, connecting Shelter Island with Greenport costs $8; and a 2.5-hour sail on the schooner Argia costs $42. Of course, none of these boats serve Narragansett Beer.

Mystic Drawbridge 7:45 A.M.

The lobsters will have to wait!
At 20-minutes before-the-hour, a whistle blows in downtown Mystic, and a pair of crossing gates stop traffic on Route 1. Moments later, the Mystic Drawbridge begins to rise.

A fixture in town since 1920, this counter-weighted, bascule bridge provides clearance for the ships of Mystic Seaport, as well as creating a spectacle for tourists walking the main street. On busy weekends, visitors with ice-cream cones and shopping bags stop what they are doing, to watch the drawbridge open for ships named Sabino and Argia.  The ships pass, the bridge is then lowered, and vacation-life resumes.
For the residents of Mystic, it is a more complicated relationship. There's an internal clock attached to every errand planned. You always seem to arrive someplace twenty-minutes early, or ten-minutes late. When you find yourself in an absolute hurry, the bridge will be open - guaranteed.
But these inconveniences have their sweet rewards. No matter the circumstance, and regardless of the true reason, residents all carry a solid, ace-in-the-hole alibi for when they are not on-time:
"Sorry I'm late, boss (honey, Mom, Your Honor, etc)...... the bridge was up".


Wikipedia: Mystic River Bascule Bridge
WTNH: Renovations for Mystic Drawbridge
New England Traveler: Mystic Bridge is a Real Draw
Map

Beach Scene, New London

Beach Scene, New London, 1918

William J Glackens

Artchive: William Glackens (1870-1938)

About.com: Bathing At Bellport 1912

Wikipedia: William K Glackens

WWII National Submarine Memorial

WWII National Submarine Veterans Memorial, Groton

Submarine History: History of the Memorial (additional photos)
Soundbounder: Battle Of Point Judith
USS Nautilus Museum (nearby)
US Submarine Veterans, Groton
Map

Crown Princess Visits New London

The 947 foot Crown Princess returned to New London this past Saturday for a seven hour visit. Entering the harbor before dawn, she was greeted by the tugboat Patricia Ann which escorted the cruise ship to her berth at the State Pier. Despite the early arrival time, a good number of people turned out to witness this. Viewers lined the waterfront at City Pier and Fort Trumbull as the large ship made a 180-degree turn to prepare for dockage.

Although the Crown Princess had previously visited in September, her return was still a noteworthy event.   For a moment, it seemed as if everyone in town stopped what they were doing and looked towards the harbor. Shopkeepers stood in their doorways and taxi drivers got out of their cabs as the ship passed by. Volunteers were on hand to assist the visitors, and music from the Nutmeg Fife & Drum filled the air.   New London is a busy port, with ferries, submarines, tallships, and Coast Guard vessels all plying the waters regularly. It is not everyday however, that a 947 foot cruise ship comes to town.

Departing Brooklyn, the 3,000 passenger ship is touring New England and the Canadian Maritimes, with stops that will include  Newport, Boston, Portland, St John, and Halifax. 

Princess Cruises: Destinations

New London Day: A Princess Stops By

Soundbounder: Arrival Of The Crown Princess

Arrival Of The Crown Princess

Fort Trumbull pier, New London; 6:35 a.m.

Josh Piver Memorial

Play music, walk on the beach. I won't be far from reach.

There are a large number of memorials honoring the September 11th victims in the shoreline towns bordering Long Island Sound. East of New Haven and Port Jefferson however, they become less frequent as the grip of Manhattan begins to loosen, and the loss from that day is more indirect.

An exception to this is the Josh Piver Memorial located at Stonington Point. It is a simple, stone bench with a few words inscribed, quietly looking out on the water towards Sandy Point and Little Narragansett Bay.

I did not know this young man, but I often feel as if I did. We had many things in common: like me, he loved the water; he spent his summer vacations working in boatyards; and he attended the University Of Vermont.

Josh was working in One World Trade Center (north tower) on the morning of September 11, 2001. He was just 24 years old.

The Josh Piver Foundation was established by his friends to honor his memory.

Josh Piver Foundation

One Mom's Lifesong: Honoring Josh Piver

Cantor Fitzgerald Tribute: Joshua Piver

New York Times: Portraits In Grief

UVM Alumni Tribute

Soundbounder: Looking West (September 11, 2009)

New York Times: September 11, Yet Nothing Stops The Tides

CT Coastal Access Guide: Stonington Point

Little Darlin'

Little Darlin';  Mystic River, July 2010

Mackenzie Cuttyhunk: photo gallery

Mackenzie Boat Club: Restoration Of Little Darlin

Alabama Aground III

With daylight and high tide quickly disappearing, it looked as if the Alabama would remain stuck until the following day. Just as I was about to leave, the tugboat Gwendolyn arrived, providing hope that the schooner would be freed shortly. When all else fails, bring in the big guns.

I was certain this was the solution; the tug had more than enough strength to pull the ship free. But the brute force of the tug could not overpower its weakest link. Three times, a towline was attached and the Gwendolyn dug in hard with all its might. Like the sound of a whip cracking, the towline broke all three times. The optimism was short lived.

The sun was down; the tide was ebbing; and the tug was out of rope. It was time to call it a day.

Black Dog Tallships: Alabama

Soundbounder: Alabama Aground I

Soundbounder: Alabama Aground II

New London Day: Schooner Runs Aground Near Mystic

Soundbounder: Alabama Aground IV

Soundbounder: Alabama Afloat

Alabama Aground II

Anybody have any ideas? No, letting the air out of the tires isn't an option.

The first boat on the scene was the Mystic Whaler.  The big, heavy, tallship replica, based out of New London, tried to tow the Alabama free using her auxilary engine. She made several attempts without a budge.

The local SeaTow and Towboat US boats then gave it a try. While these are powerful boats, they are more designed to assist smaller and lighter vessels. Working in unison however, seemed like a good idea. One boat attached a line to the mast of the Alabama, while the other rigged a more tradition towline from the stern. The Alabama listed over as the two boats worked in tandem. Watching this, I thought she was going to be pulled free, but after numerous attempts, the schooner was still aground.

By this time, a large crowd had gathered along the shore, and a fleet of small boats circled nearby to watch. It was a hot, windless night and this was turning into a sideshow. Out of respect for the crews and a concern for safety, I kept a good distance away and watched the events from afar, relying on a zoom lense to view the action. Sure, it was interesting to watch, but it was also important to stay out of the way. 

What really struck me funny was the number of self-proclaimed experts commenting on what the towboats were doing wrong. Sound can travel a great distance over the water and I could hear the manager of a nearby marina calling them "Dumb &Dumber" along with a few other unprintable words. Everybody is an expert these days.

Soundbounder: Alabama Aground part one

Soundbounder: Alabama Aground part three

Soundbounder: Alabama Aground part four

Soundbounder: Alabama Afloat

Black Dog Tallships: Alabama

Grayling

There is always something interesting to see on the Mystic River. Grayling is a 65' sardine carrier that was built in East Boothbay, Maine in 1915. Converted and restored in the 1990's,  she is often  seen on her mooring east of Noank.
Heading out for a recent sunset sail, I swung wide through the mooring field to catch a closer view.

Soundings: A Lifetime Of Boats
Page Traditional Boats: Specifications & Photos (scroll down)

Thomas Oyster House

On the grounds of Mystic Seaport, sits the former building of the Thomas Oyster Company. Constructed circa 1874, this house stood in the City Point (aka Oyster Pt) section of New Haven. According to the museum, New Haven was once the largest oyster distribution center in New England.

I haven't visited City Point in years, and a post about this unique neighborhood is long overdue. In the meantime, the links below provide some photos and history of the former oyster capital.

Mystic Seaport: Thomas Oyster House

City Point: Historic Photos

New Haven Preservation Trust: City Point 

A Brief History Of City Point  

Morgan Point Lighthouse

Morgan Point Lighthouse, Noank

First Lit: 1868

Decommissioned: 1919

New England Lightnouses

Lighthouse Friends (map included)

Soundbounder: Sandra & Michelle

Soundbounder: Morgan Point

Sara Elizabeth

Sarah Elizabeth departs Stonington in heavy fog. May 2010

Soundbounder: Fog Happens

Soundbounder: Stonington Fishing Fleet

CT Coastal Access Guide: Stonington Town Dock & Memorial

Back From Cuba II

Here are some more photos of the Amistad in New London. I have been taking many of my photos early in the morning recently, with good results. Yesterday however, there was fog, and it was not the spooky, mysterious, and photogenic kind. Instead, it was  just a heavy haze that burned off later. These are not my best pictures, but the Amistad is  attractive  enough that I decided to post them regardless.

One of these days, it would be nice to catch her under sail, with clear skies. 

Soundbounder: Back From Cuba I

Cuban Daily News: Museum of Slave Route Preserves Legacy

Ficklin Media: In Cuban Port, A Living Lesson

VarnishMonkey: Amistad Crewmember Blog

Back From Cuba

While some of us motored down a river and through a drawbridge to reach our summer destination, there are other vessels that have returned from much more distant harbors. The Amistad docked in New London on Thursday after an eight month, 4,000 mile journey to Cuba this year. That certainly puts things in perspective.

Today,   free tours of the ship are available, as well as an exhibit at the New London Customs House Museum.

New London Day: Living History Docks In New London

Customs House Museum: Revolt To Freedom 

Provenance Center: List Of Events

BBC: Amistad In Cuba Video Clip

Amistad: Website

Soundbounder: Amistad In Noank (2008)

Soundbounder: Back From Cuba II (more photos)

The 7:05 Out Of Noank

Officially, Fishers Island belongs to the State of New York. It's shortest distance to the mainland however is with Rhode Island. It has a Connecticut zip-code, an east end of Long Island area-code, and views of Block Island. To reach the island, one must take a ferry from New London (there is a small airport too).

Most of Fishers Island is private and residential. As you may have already guessed, it is also very expensive. Much of the work that takes place here is performed by off-island residents. The girl at the pharmacy, the landscaper, and the electrician are often residents of southeastern Connecticut who commute here daily. That's where Baby Doll comes in.

Along with one other boat that I am aware of, Baby Doll departs Noank twice each morning and ferries workers to West Harbor on Fishers Island. In the afternoon, she does it all again and returns them home.

Sure beats the Cross Bronx Expressway!

Map

Neptune

I don't think I have seen this boat before.  While looking around online however, I sooned learned why that is. The Neptune is the sole vessel in the Stonington fleet that fishes for Royal Red Shrimp. Travelling hundreds of miles offshore, she is often at sea for several days at a time. Built in 1967 by Blount Marine of Warren, Rhode Island, the vessel is 76 feet long.
I recently finished reading The Last Fish Tale by Mark Kurlansky, which takes a rather somber look at the commercial fishing industry in Gloucester. While Stonington is not Gloucester, or even Pt Judith, it does surprise me to discover that there is a local boat fishing for shrimp.
A few days after our recent nor'easter, I saw her lying quiet and still along the south pier of the Stonington docks. Her outriggers and nets all shrouded in fog. The one and only shrimp boat in Connecticut's last remaining commercial fishing fleet.

UCONN Seagrant: Royal Red Shrimp- Stonington's Secret
Soundbounder: Stonington Fishing Fleet
CT Coastal Access Guide: Stonington Town Docks
New York Times: Stonington Red Is Catching On
Map